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Kawasaki Teryx Throttle Cable Replacement

Discussion in 'Member Reviews and Technical Articles' started by DLB, Mar 2, 2015.

By DLB on Mar 2, 2015 at 6:01 PM
  1. DLB

    DLB Moderator
    Staff Member

    Jan 29, 2015
    Likes Received:
    If you spend enough time around mud, you're bound to get stuck. If you spend enough time stuck, you'll find yourself replacing parts. Once on the Outlaw trails, I spent 10 minutes stuck and spinning in a watery mud hole. Some time later, my throttle cable developed a catch. Water and mud must have entered the cable sleeve. When temperatures fell below freezing, the cable started to stick. I had to apply heat to the throttle cable sleeve in order to free the cable. I decided to order a new cable, and below are some tips I picked up during the install.

    This tech article covers the 2012 - 2015 Teryx4 and the 2014 - 2015 Teryx.

    Tools needed:

    10mm, 12mm & 14mm wrench
    Flat head & Phillips screwdrivers
    1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" socket and a phillips head bit

    Install Time: ≤ 60 minutes

    Level of Difficultly: Easy

    First, remove the shift knob.


    Next, remove the plastic push rivets that secure the center cowl, including the smaller rivets on the knee pads.

    Remove the cowl. Engaging the parking brake is necessary during this step. Notice the arrow pointing to the location of the throttle link case.

    Remove the 4 screws on the throttle link case cover. You may choose to remove the plastic under the driver's seat, but it is possible to flex the plastic enough to use a stubby screwdriver and/or a 1/4" drive ratchet with phillips head bit to remove the two lower screws.

    Remove the throttle link case cover, being careful not to damage the rubber gasket.

    Remove the throttle cable end from the throttle pulley. This can be done by rotating the pulley until there is enough slack in the cable to release the throttle cable end. Alternately, releasing tension on the throttle cable by disconnecting it from the throttle pedal will give you the slack needed as well.

    Using a 14mm wrench, loosen the locknut that secures the adjusting nut to the throttle link case and then loosen the adjusting nut until the cable can be pulled free from the throttle link case.

    Disconnect the two plastic clamps that retain the cable.

    Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the two nuts at the throttle pedal. Remove the lower nut and slide the cable through the hole in the firewall and free from the mount. Notice the yellow plastic clip. This must be removed from the throttle pedal as well.

    From underneath the hood, pull the cable through the firewall and through the metal retainer, located below the air intake tube. There is no need to remove this retainer.

    Route the new throttle cable into place. Thread the adjusting nut into the throttle link case and snug the 14mm locknut. Connect the throttle cable end to the throttle pulley.

    Install the throttle cable at the pedal, making sure to snap the yellow clip (see below) in place and finger tighten the two 10mm nuts. Go back to the throttle link case and check for free play. Make the necessary adjustments using the 12mm adjusting nut. Allow enough free play in the cable so that it does not pull on the throttle pulley while the pedal is at rest, but still allows wide open throttle (WOT) with the pedal completely depressed. Tighten the 14mm locknut once free play is set. Now check for free play at the throttle pedal. Pedal free play should be between 15 ∼ 20 mm (0.59 ∼ 0.79 in.) If required, adjust using the 10mm nuts.

    Here is a tip for installing the lower screws on the throttle link case cover: Put a dab of tooth paste on the screw driver tip so the screw won't fall off during installation.

    Snug the remaining screws on the throttle link case cover.
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2015
    mrwvsportsman, Butch450 and thegrizz like this.


Discussion in 'Member Reviews and Technical Articles' started by DLB, Mar 2, 2015.

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